I'm setting up a plan for electronics and would like to hide the surge protecting power bar in the utility room on the other side of the finished family room. The wall in the utility room is open as there are junctions. I know you can't have a power cord to an appliance in a closed wall, but what if it is open to the other side?|||What are you going to do when you have to close up that wall? Check with your local electrical codes.
Could run dedicated circuits that you can run your electronics off on? You can use surge protecting outlets or put the entire house on surge protection. That'll give you another layer of protection for everything including expensive kitchen appliances and computers too.|||It will work. Just don't pinch the cord.
Friday, September 23, 2011
How can I fit appliance doors to an integrated fridge?
I am in the middle of fitting a new kitchen and have bought integrated fridge and freezer to go under the counter. I also have specific 'appliance' doors as part of the kitchen- but no instructions anywhere for how to fit the fridge door to the cupboard door! Help!|||Didn't you get a series of brackets with it? Typically one for the top %26amp; one for the bottom of the door. These fit the 'open' side %26amp; you screw them into the cupboard door. Offer them up to the fridge %26amp; mark the position for the top %26amp; bottom hinges (on fridge %26amp; cupboard door)...make pilot holes.
Screw fridge door to cupboard door %26amp; line up the hinges. Check opening clearance %26amp; screw in if OK.
The weight of both doors is taken by the hinges.
If the holes wear big the best thing to do is fill with liquid wood %26amp; re screw. Liquid wood is a good DIY tool so even if you use a weeney bit on this job you will find plenty of other uses.
OR you could contact the supplier %26amp; ask them to post you the fixing template?|||there should be a metal runner which attaches to the cupboard door. Usually about 4 or 5 inches long. the appliance has a metal piece which goes under the runner. Go to your local hardware store and tell them you're fitting appliances - they'll tell you what you need
Screw fridge door to cupboard door %26amp; line up the hinges. Check opening clearance %26amp; screw in if OK.
The weight of both doors is taken by the hinges.
If the holes wear big the best thing to do is fill with liquid wood %26amp; re screw. Liquid wood is a good DIY tool so even if you use a weeney bit on this job you will find plenty of other uses.
OR you could contact the supplier %26amp; ask them to post you the fixing template?|||there should be a metal runner which attaches to the cupboard door. Usually about 4 or 5 inches long. the appliance has a metal piece which goes under the runner. Go to your local hardware store and tell them you're fitting appliances - they'll tell you what you need
Sunday, September 18, 2011
How to know how much you will pay for every minute u consume electricity on an appliance?
If im paying the electric company for kilowatt-hour. how can i compute how much do i pay for every appliance i use in every time.|||Every appliance states the power used (that's amount of energy per unit time). A microwave oven may be 1000 Watts for instance. Now the kilowatt-hour is a unit of energy that corresponds to an appliance that burns 1 kW continuously during 1 hour. (Like our oven.) You may want to convert the kWh to Joules: multiply power by time, that is 1000 W by 1 hour in seconds. Let's do it:
1 kWh = 1000 x 60 minutes x 60 seconds = 3.6 x 10**6 J
Now, say a lightbulb of 100 W for 5 minutes will spend
E = 100 x 5 minutes x 60 seconds = 30 x 10**3 J
You know the price of 1 kWh (it's in your electric bill), so you can figure how much costs an appliance of given wattage for a specified period of time.|||Take the wattage, convert it to kilowatts, multiply it by the time you run it and you'll have the kilowatt-hours.
Then multiply the kwh by the rate (if it's in $/kwh) and you have the cost.
Note that you'll have to estimate how long it will be on to estimate the cost.
Here's a calculation for the daily cost of a 100w light bulb at 11 cents/kwh on for 12 hours per day.
100w = 100/1000 = .1 kw x 12 hours = 1.2 kwh per day
1.2 kwh x $ 0.11 = $ 1.32 per day.
1 kWh = 1000 x 60 minutes x 60 seconds = 3.6 x 10**6 J
Now, say a lightbulb of 100 W for 5 minutes will spend
E = 100 x 5 minutes x 60 seconds = 30 x 10**3 J
You know the price of 1 kWh (it's in your electric bill), so you can figure how much costs an appliance of given wattage for a specified period of time.|||Take the wattage, convert it to kilowatts, multiply it by the time you run it and you'll have the kilowatt-hours.
Then multiply the kwh by the rate (if it's in $/kwh) and you have the cost.
Note that you'll have to estimate how long it will be on to estimate the cost.
Here's a calculation for the daily cost of a 100w light bulb at 11 cents/kwh on for 12 hours per day.
100w = 100/1000 = .1 kw x 12 hours = 1.2 kwh per day
1.2 kwh x $ 0.11 = $ 1.32 per day.
Electric appliance plugs get hot on high wattage appliances that heat up?
When I plug the toaster oven in, or the space heater, or the high setting on my hair dryer, the electrical plug on the appliance heats up in a few minutes as I can tell when I unplug it and feel the metal prongs hot. The low setting of the hair dryer doesn't do this, or the slow cooker, or lamps. Any idea what's wrong with the wiring here? Thank you and bless you for any input!|||Because these are high wattage appliances, they also require a larger amount of current (amps). Anytime wire conducts electricity, heat is generated. The more current, the more heat generated by the wire.
It is the job of the wire insulation to withstand this heat and still protect from short circuit and electrocution. On these appliances, the wire insulation tends to be better and thicker than an average table lamp (that only uses 75 watts). If the wire/plug is a little warm, it is fine. If it is hot, it may not be making a good connection inside the receptacle. This indicates a worn out receptacle that should be replaced.|||Your apparent awareness of wattage on heating appliances gets you down the road and around the corner from many consumers. Since the typical residential receptacle circuit is 15 amps, I'm wondering if you have more than one of these things plugged into the same circuit. Calculate the total watts load, divide by 120, and don't exceed around 12 (amps). And avoid extension cords unless 14g.
If you have an older house, with fuses instead of breakers, and/or "2 hole" outlets, but like the place and plan to stay, get a licensed electrician to give you a bid on upgrading to three-wire service with a breaker panel. Assuming your roof is good, it will be some of the best money you ever spent.|||You need to replace the outlets.
I have heard it said all outlets that get used should be replaced at least every 10 years. Most people fail to do that.
The connections inside the outlet grab the prongs and over time and from warming during use they become weaker. As they get weaker the connection has greater resistance and resistance equals more heat. Eventually a weak outlet will start burning the prongs on the plugs.
Good Luck.|||First you must check for loose terminations at your socket outlet.To do this turn off the power at your fuseboard.Remove the screws holding the socket to the backbox,and check for loose terminations,The cable size should also be checked,this can be done by a qualified electrician.|||maybe you should have someone check your wiring before you have a fire there
It is the job of the wire insulation to withstand this heat and still protect from short circuit and electrocution. On these appliances, the wire insulation tends to be better and thicker than an average table lamp (that only uses 75 watts). If the wire/plug is a little warm, it is fine. If it is hot, it may not be making a good connection inside the receptacle. This indicates a worn out receptacle that should be replaced.|||Your apparent awareness of wattage on heating appliances gets you down the road and around the corner from many consumers. Since the typical residential receptacle circuit is 15 amps, I'm wondering if you have more than one of these things plugged into the same circuit. Calculate the total watts load, divide by 120, and don't exceed around 12 (amps). And avoid extension cords unless 14g.
If you have an older house, with fuses instead of breakers, and/or "2 hole" outlets, but like the place and plan to stay, get a licensed electrician to give you a bid on upgrading to three-wire service with a breaker panel. Assuming your roof is good, it will be some of the best money you ever spent.|||You need to replace the outlets.
I have heard it said all outlets that get used should be replaced at least every 10 years. Most people fail to do that.
The connections inside the outlet grab the prongs and over time and from warming during use they become weaker. As they get weaker the connection has greater resistance and resistance equals more heat. Eventually a weak outlet will start burning the prongs on the plugs.
Good Luck.|||First you must check for loose terminations at your socket outlet.To do this turn off the power at your fuseboard.Remove the screws holding the socket to the backbox,and check for loose terminations,The cable size should also be checked,this can be done by a qualified electrician.|||maybe you should have someone check your wiring before you have a fire there
How much watts of current an inverter takes to charge its battery to run an electric appliance.?
How much current an inverter consumes to charge the battery to run a 100W home appliance for one hour. I would like to know is it economical to use inverters instead of electricity supplied by government, at peak times. To be precise, if an inverter works for 500 w equipments conteneously for 8 hours, the total output is 4 KW, whether the current required to charge the battery will be 4kw or more?|||This is a 4 part question.
Your Batteries:
The german scientist Peukert had the same question. So he came up with an answer, and now we use this set of equations to determine the efficiency of batteries on the market today. Your common flooded battery is 40-60% efficient at high amperage rates. An AGM flooded lead acid battery is 80-90% efficient. Use this link to understand the equations, and the math involved.
http://www.bdbatteries.com/peukert.php
Your inverter:
If the DC-AC inverter is a pure sine wave inverter, is probably 90% - 95% efficient. These are usually grid tie inverters, starting in the Thousands of dollar range. If the DC-AC inverter is a modified sine wave inverter, it is only 60% - 85% efficient, but available at places like Wal Mart.
Your Charger:
A battery charger reloads the power into the battery, or power tank for the inverter to use. The chargers today are usually 80-95% efficient again. As a battery approaches fully charged state, the efficiency drastically reduces.
Then we multply it all:
Charger x Battery x Inverter = total efficiency
Assuming AGM batteries, grid inverter, and a good charger.
90% x 90% x 90% = 73%
To push 8KW through a 73% efficient system, you need 127% of the power.
4KWH x 1.27 = 5.08KWH
Conclusion, Batteries are the only electrical device that can actually store power.
They are not as efficient as using the power directly from the generator or panel.
However batteries can store and clean that power. Flipping power from AC to DC (battery Charging), storing the power (in the battery), and then converting power back from DC to AC (in the inverter) is a series of 3 steps. Each step has loss involved.
This loss is reasonable if it serves a purpose. For instance this process insulates sensitive electronics like computers, scientific instruments, LCD Big screen televisions, and stereos from the inconsistencies in the power grid. By switching AC to DC you remove all spikes, sags, transients, and lags. When the inverter pushes the computer from the DC power, it is a perfect power source. For lag, sag, spike, and transient information click on this link.
http://www.bdbatteries.com/lagsagspike.p鈥?/a>
You have a battery backup for your laptop onboard. The battery backup for your desktop is in a little black box under your desk for the same reason.
Another reasonable place for loss, applications where power can not go down. For instance, in a hospital or records room, the batteries allow the load to be powered when the power goes out. The batteries must have sufficient capacity to drive the load for an hour or so. This time frame is long enough for maintenance to turn on the generators and switch over. The generators power the load, and recharge the batteries for the ensuing switch back to grid power.|||A 500W load for 8 hours is 4KWh. If this was from an inverter with 80% efficiency it would require 5KWh from the battery. The energy to recharge the battery is 1.4 times the energy delivered by the battery, so 7.5KWh. Therefore it takes 7.5KWh to provide 4KWh when using a battery. As a ratio, this is 1.875, or uses 188% of the energy provided. For the 100W appliance it could be a slightly higher percentage using a 500W inverter, as the efficiency may be slightly lower taking 100W from a 500W inverter.
The battery for the 500W for 8h calculation would be at least 250Ah @ 24V.
As you can see there is no economic advantage whatever - it is all to do with having better quality power during peak periods, assuming there is sufficient power on average to make up the extra requirement to charge the battery etc..|||That all depends on the type of charging used and the size of the inverter. For example a 1800W inverter will use less power to charge than a 3600W inverter, but will also discharge quicker when using 1800w appliances. The discharge however will be in kilowatt hours, not just kilowatts.
It could be economical if you use it right, but you need to look at a technical manual for the precise figures which will determine whether its worth it or not.
Get a generator :)|||Its totally depends on battery capacity, as we know batteries are different capacity so, I think it would not be fine if we set some value for the same.As I know the researchers who are doing the practice for the same they will analyze the thing betters.
Your Batteries:
The german scientist Peukert had the same question. So he came up with an answer, and now we use this set of equations to determine the efficiency of batteries on the market today. Your common flooded battery is 40-60% efficient at high amperage rates. An AGM flooded lead acid battery is 80-90% efficient. Use this link to understand the equations, and the math involved.
http://www.bdbatteries.com/peukert.php
Your inverter:
If the DC-AC inverter is a pure sine wave inverter, is probably 90% - 95% efficient. These are usually grid tie inverters, starting in the Thousands of dollar range. If the DC-AC inverter is a modified sine wave inverter, it is only 60% - 85% efficient, but available at places like Wal Mart.
Your Charger:
A battery charger reloads the power into the battery, or power tank for the inverter to use. The chargers today are usually 80-95% efficient again. As a battery approaches fully charged state, the efficiency drastically reduces.
Then we multply it all:
Charger x Battery x Inverter = total efficiency
Assuming AGM batteries, grid inverter, and a good charger.
90% x 90% x 90% = 73%
To push 8KW through a 73% efficient system, you need 127% of the power.
4KWH x 1.27 = 5.08KWH
Conclusion, Batteries are the only electrical device that can actually store power.
They are not as efficient as using the power directly from the generator or panel.
However batteries can store and clean that power. Flipping power from AC to DC (battery Charging), storing the power (in the battery), and then converting power back from DC to AC (in the inverter) is a series of 3 steps. Each step has loss involved.
This loss is reasonable if it serves a purpose. For instance this process insulates sensitive electronics like computers, scientific instruments, LCD Big screen televisions, and stereos from the inconsistencies in the power grid. By switching AC to DC you remove all spikes, sags, transients, and lags. When the inverter pushes the computer from the DC power, it is a perfect power source. For lag, sag, spike, and transient information click on this link.
http://www.bdbatteries.com/lagsagspike.p鈥?/a>
You have a battery backup for your laptop onboard. The battery backup for your desktop is in a little black box under your desk for the same reason.
Another reasonable place for loss, applications where power can not go down. For instance, in a hospital or records room, the batteries allow the load to be powered when the power goes out. The batteries must have sufficient capacity to drive the load for an hour or so. This time frame is long enough for maintenance to turn on the generators and switch over. The generators power the load, and recharge the batteries for the ensuing switch back to grid power.|||A 500W load for 8 hours is 4KWh. If this was from an inverter with 80% efficiency it would require 5KWh from the battery. The energy to recharge the battery is 1.4 times the energy delivered by the battery, so 7.5KWh. Therefore it takes 7.5KWh to provide 4KWh when using a battery. As a ratio, this is 1.875, or uses 188% of the energy provided. For the 100W appliance it could be a slightly higher percentage using a 500W inverter, as the efficiency may be slightly lower taking 100W from a 500W inverter.
The battery for the 500W for 8h calculation would be at least 250Ah @ 24V.
As you can see there is no economic advantage whatever - it is all to do with having better quality power during peak periods, assuming there is sufficient power on average to make up the extra requirement to charge the battery etc..|||That all depends on the type of charging used and the size of the inverter. For example a 1800W inverter will use less power to charge than a 3600W inverter, but will also discharge quicker when using 1800w appliances. The discharge however will be in kilowatt hours, not just kilowatts.
It could be economical if you use it right, but you need to look at a technical manual for the precise figures which will determine whether its worth it or not.
Get a generator :)|||Its totally depends on battery capacity, as we know batteries are different capacity so, I think it would not be fine if we set some value for the same.As I know the researchers who are doing the practice for the same they will analyze the thing betters.
How long do you have to wear a herbst appliance?
I recently got the herbst appliance, and I forgot to ask my orthodontist how long i'll be wearing it. Does anyone know??
Thanks for your help :)|||Each case is different. Only your orthodontist can give you an estimate.
Thanks for your help :)|||Each case is different. Only your orthodontist can give you an estimate.
Who is the manufacturer of aGT EXPRESS 101 baking appliance.?
The appliance is about 10" in dia.A domed silver hinged lid with a red indicator light is located on the top rear of the lid.Inside is two half moon shaped recesses with matching ones in the lid Looks like you could make corn bread in it .The on/off switch is in the lid .When the lid is open the power is off.When you close thelid ,it starts to heat up.|||this is an "AS SEEN ON TV" PRODUCT. if you want to purchase one............
GT Xpress 101鈩?cooks delicious meals fast and without the added fat! With GT Xpress 101鈩? all you do is place food in the preheated cooking wells and close the lid. The dual cooking wells and controlled temperature cook from both top and bottom at once so there鈥檚 no turning or burning. GT Xpress鈥檚 thermostat controls the temperature so you get perfect results every time - even if you leave it in too long! The hinged lid prevents spillovers and clean up鈥檚 a cinch too, just wipe with a damp cloth. Enjoy healthy, flavor-packed, satisfying food in no time! 101 Recipe book includes meal, snack, dessert and low carb recipes.
Features include....
101 Recipe Booklet
Spatula
Dual cooking wells
Thermostatically controlled
Floating Hinge
Non-stick interior
Ready Light
Built in cord wrap
Includes :
2 GT Xpress 101
1 Pocket Maker
1 Flavor Injector
1 Shaker Bottle
2 Spatulas
2 Recipe Books|||It's manufactured in China by GT Media, Inc. in N.Y.
GT Xpress 101鈩?cooks delicious meals fast and without the added fat! With GT Xpress 101鈩? all you do is place food in the preheated cooking wells and close the lid. The dual cooking wells and controlled temperature cook from both top and bottom at once so there鈥檚 no turning or burning. GT Xpress鈥檚 thermostat controls the temperature so you get perfect results every time - even if you leave it in too long! The hinged lid prevents spillovers and clean up鈥檚 a cinch too, just wipe with a damp cloth. Enjoy healthy, flavor-packed, satisfying food in no time! 101 Recipe book includes meal, snack, dessert and low carb recipes.
Features include....
101 Recipe Booklet
Spatula
Dual cooking wells
Thermostatically controlled
Floating Hinge
Non-stick interior
Ready Light
Built in cord wrap
Includes :
2 GT Xpress 101
1 Pocket Maker
1 Flavor Injector
1 Shaker Bottle
2 Spatulas
2 Recipe Books|||It's manufactured in China by GT Media, Inc. in N.Y.
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